DAY 5 THE HOT SPRINGS — Norse Theme Parks

TRAVEL LOG ENTRY 5: HERJOLFSNÆS AND THE HOT SPINGS

Our trip to Herjolfsnæs began early. The sun was on the rise, her soothing rainbow colours skating on the surface of the water. Now we were sailing so far down south, we could see Cape Farewell in the distance, its jagged peaks stabbing the sky.

Early morning departure - Cape Farewell in the distance

We passed a town called Frederiksdal, then Herjolfsnæs appeared on our left side. This bit of land was named after Herjolf Bårdson, liegeman of Viking adventurer Erik the Red, who led a group of ships from Iceland to Greenland. While most newcomers were drawn to the inner fjords, Herjolf built his farm on the peninsula south of Brattahlíd; hence the name Herjolfsnæs (‘Herjolf’s Nose’).

Two by two

To get us ashore, Storch sailed around the headland and into an inlet, where he dropped anchor. Then he ferried us in, two at a time, in his rowboat. Calm waters, warm sun, and a brisk walk to find and film some of the ruins of Norse farms, churchyards and, not least, the surroundings.

When we paused to look at the landscape, my eyes were drawn towards a humble waterfall. I’d love to have seen the massive one that briefly formed on the ice-sheet last year. While it lasted, which was no more than 5 hours, it was the tallest waterfall in the world. Blue-white power seized grumbling by gravity, sent plunging into the deep.

We’re not hovering in the sky, watching a meltwater lake of 5 million cubic litres disappear, we’re here on the ground in a pretty setting not many people get to see – and very happy to be here too!

Perma Finds

This long-abandoned area is well out of reach for the majority of today’s tourists, making it blissfully quiet and unspoiled. It has become a playground for invading archaeologists; experts who’ve made some surprising discoveries - from bits of wood and shards of bones to human skeletons trapped in permafrost.

Over the years, hundreds of bodies have been brought into the light, many of whom (probably the wealthier ones) have been found clothed in woven woollen garments that have survived for more than 500 years of darkness. Some of the gowns and tunics were actually wrapped around their owners, like shrouds.

From grazing to trading

Once upon a time, the Norse settlers in this region would have been farmers or traders. In the vales, you’d have seen sheep grazing. And down by the shore, you’d have seen a very busy trading station pushing highly valuable, easily carvable walrus ivory.

The Vikings monopolized the European ivory trade for over two centuries, but overhunting put a stop to that. Also, elephant ivory was becoming fashionable, being longer and smoother. Desperate to survive, the traders started selling walrus tusks as elephant ivory. They were even selling the spiral-shaped tusk of narwhals as unicorn horns.

Not too hot

When Storch picked us up again in his rowboat, we headed for Uunartoq , a little island resting off the eastern tip of southern Greenland. This little island has lots to offer.

The word ‘Uunartoq’ means ‘the warming island’, and here’s why. Along the edge of the fjord, you’ll find southern Greenland’s famous Thermal Springs, which were discovered and used for bathing by the Vikings more than 1,000 years ago.

In many places around Greenland, the thermal springs are only around six degrees above zero, which, despite the small difference, feels pretty good. But the hot springs in Uunartoq are 38°C (100 Fahrenheit), which feels great! This makes them very popular among day-tripping locals and tourists.

First bath in four days - oh what a treat!

Visually, this place is a landscape-artist’s paradise. In the distance, craggy mountains guard the fjord. Far below, sea-sculpted icebergs drift lazily by, in a sapphire cradle. And in front of it all - in our luxury spa with a view - we floated in ‘front row’ seats. Eyes soaking up the scenery, hands making swirls in the gold-dappled, shallow water.

In and out

For Norse Theme Parks, experiencing this natural phenomenon was a dream come true. When we arrived, we couldn’t wait to get in (gravely in need of a good bath), but getting out again was a bit of a shock. When plus degrees are floored by the minus, it's definitely time to move on!

Impressed and refreshed, that's exactly what we did...

DAY 5: THE THERMAL SPRINGS